Third Rock From The Sun

Hello everyone

I am back from my island adventure. It was just what I needed.

I often feel that South Korea has sacrificed its potential beauty in pursuit of wealth, buildings are built in only a few weeks thanks to the extensive use of cement and prefabricated panels - they’re ugly but functional, as are towns and cities.

You are not likely to find beauty in Korean cities. They’re almost uniformly ugly, and I often feel that I could have arrived in any number of cities when ever I get off a bus.

Uleung-do off the coast of South Korea has largely escaped the mad rush to develop and acquire wealth at seemingly any cost. It’s not that Uleung-do has been immune to this trend, but its landscape does not lend itself to commercial use. Its mountains and valleys are steep, and the island ends abruptly in huge foreboding cliffs.

Its rugard nature, distance from the mainland and location in the often turbulent East sea have ensured that only the intrepid have come to call it home. As the island lends itself to only very limited agriculture most people have come to live on the coast around small harbours that are home to a fleet of squid fishing vessels.

The stated purpose of our trip was to form ‘proper views on the Dokdo debate.’ Dokdo is a set of rocky outcrops 90km from Uleung-do. Uleung-do is the closest Korean port, and ferries to Dokdo leave from Uleung-do. On a clear day it can apparently be seen from Uleung-do’s peaks. Dokdo which is far smaller than Uleung-do, and virtually uninhabitable, is claimed by both Korea and Japan and its ownership is a hotly contested topic. Dokdo overshadows Uleung-do, which is sad as Uleungdo should be celebrated as a national treasure.

Koreans are highly passionate about Dokdo, and any foreigner living in South Korea would be well advised to either avoid the topic or choose their words very carefully. Although I originally understood the dispute in economic terms - as with ownership of Dokdo comes a 200 mile exclusive ‘economic zone’ (fishery) - my understanding these days is that much of the passion that the topic evinces is tied to Japan’s imperial occupation of Korea.

Japan’s claim to Dokdo is seen as the last vestige of the imperial era, and as such is a reminder of the cruelty and many indignities that Koreans suffered at the hands of the Japanese.

I can’t say I’m glad to be back. I would far rather still be on the island. Perhaps I will have another chance to visit again one day. At least I feel far more relaxed. I felt privileged to be on the island and the trip served as a reminder of the many privileges that I do enjoy.

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Uleung-do was the perfect place to really try and push my photography skills.

I love my Canon, but some of my favourite shots were taken with Jessica's Sony Cybershot.

Perhaps it was appropriate that Canon was upstaged by the Sony, the island had after all an air of humility and simplicity to it.

These are two of my favourite photos. I took them with Jessica's camera as I had left mine at the hotel. The boy is looking out a bus window.

Jessica standing in the doorway to our bus. It was a gloomy overcast day and our hosts were trying to keep us occupied as our hike had been canceled.

Jessica and Bianca posing in front of light house. Bianca lives on Uleungdo, she is one of only two western residents. Respect to her. She was very friendly and shared her knoweldge of the island with us. What a nice person.